I’m taking my 1990 Mercedes 300TE on this drive.  Now I could have taken my wife’s modern car – a Mercedes E350 Wagon.    However, I far prefer driving the 300TE.   The E350 is not as irritating as most modern cars, but I would still rather drive the 124.   I also think any issues are more likely to be dealt with easily.   An ECU or Airmatic problem is going to end the trip.

In order to reduce the odds of any issues, I had a few jobs to do to the car.    None of them were mandatory, but I think good preventative maintenance.   I have previously covered some other work I did on the car such as refurbishing the instrument cluster, attempting to change the centre vent and changing the speakers.

This trip should take me past 380,000km for the car.

Starter motor replacement

A few months ago, I noticed that when I started the 300TE, the starter motor did not seem to full disengage, and I could hear a bad noise like it was still just touching the ring gear.  It only did this a few times, but I really didn’t want to be stuck with a bad starter by the side of the road.   A Bosch remanufactured starter wasn’t all that expensive and seemed like good insurance.    I had this done at a workshop.

Tailgate soft close mechanism

The S124 has a soft close mechanism for the tailgate.   All you need to do is gently close it, and the motor will latch the tailgate.   Recently, mine has started play up.   The motor does not engage when it should, but there is a sound coming from the back like the motor is trying to work at other times.   This was mostly when I closed it firmly to bypass the soft close, or when I turned off the ignition.

I bought a second hand soft close mechanism, and gave it to the same workshop who did the starter.   They swapped the two mechanisms over, but it was still playing up.   They also did some troubleshooting.   Using a multi-meter the microswitches seemed to register when the mechanism was in a position, but they did not trigger the motor.   When the motor was triggered, it was at extremely low voltage, and the noise was coming from something else in the mechanism.

After troubleshooting for a bit, and getting nowhere, we agreed to simply disable the mechanism for now, so it doesn’t flatten my battery while I am away.   The car still works, without the soft close feature.

Oil and Filter change

As part of my trip preparation, I did a routine oil and filter change.  My hoist is currently broken, so I pumped the oil out manually.  I used Penrite HPR15 – 15W/60 Full Synthetic.

When I do an oil change, I like to remove the fuel pump relay and use the starter until oil pressure registers on the gauge.  I don’t think its strictly necessary, but its something I like to do.

Bluetooth Module wiring

When installed the correct Becker 1402 in the car, I wired in a hidden Bluetooth FM injector.   This had mostly stopped working.  Occasionally it did work, which made me think the unit was bad.

The Bluetooth unit is under the dash wood in front of the shifter.  I removed the dash wood to get to it, assuming it would need replacement.  When I removed the radio, I immediately saw the problem.    In my install, I used a relay to trigger the blue tooth unit to turn on from the antenna trigger wire.  One of my crimp connections was loose.  When I moved the radio, it came out.  To fix the issue, all I had to do was put on a new connector.

New Battery

When I first purchased the car, my battery tester noted that the battery was a bit marginal.   From the service history, it had been installed in 2017.   It probably had another year or so in it, but in November, Supercheap had a big sale.   I got a new battery for 30% off and installed it for the trip.

Auxiliary fan cut in

I’ve never been happy with the temperature of the car in stop/go traffic with the A/C on.   It sits just above 100C.   Since I owned the car, I put in an 80C thermostat and replaced the viscous fan coupling.  Those made improvements, but I it was still hot in traffic.   Given the properties of R134A, I find that it works better if the radiator is not that hot.   I’ve planned to make a fan controller box with a variable resistor like I did for the 560SEC.   However, I’m terrible at soldering, so I have not had time.

For this trip, I just wrapped the resistor around the pins for the fan sensor, and put a new plastic housing around the pins for the wiring.   This is not perfect, but should bring the fan engagement point down to the mid 90s.

Key spare parts

One advantage of driving a very common car, like a Toyota Camry, is that there are parts available wherever you go.   This is not the case in a 30 year old Mercedes.   I packed a few parts that are probably not necessary, but may be helpful on the road.     The first is a new serpentine belt and tensioner.   As a rule, I don’t like serpentine belts.  If you lose an accessory, you can’t just remove that belt and continue.    However, that is what the M103 is equipped with.   This is not something I can do by the side of the road, but having the right belt and tensioner means I can be towed to any garage for a belt change.

I also brought a voltage regulator, and a distributor rotor and cap.   Plus a few standard Mercedes relays, fuses, some wiring, cable ties and basic tools.   I take more when I go on the road trips with my friends, but I have a whole boot available, and we are pushing the cars harder.

I managed to get all this stuff squeezed into the side storage areas in the cargo area.

The post Preparing my 300TE for a family road trip appeared first on Classic Jalopy.

This morning I looked up the wiring colours for the Sony online.   The wiring in the car has been ‘modified’ by various radio installers over the years, so starting with the Sony wires was a good place to start.   As outlined the operation instructions, the Becker 1402 wiring harness has four wires going into the custom plug.  These are:  Ground, Switched Power, Illumination & Constant power.

Before I wired in the Becker harness, I also needed to provide some connections for other accessories.    I wanted to add in USB charging ports and the iTranzit BLU FM injector.    As the Becker will use a lot less power than the modern Sony, I wasn’t too worried about the power draw.   My new setup should use less power overall than the old one.   I’m already charging my phone from the cigarette lighter which comes off the same circuit.

I planned to let the Becker 1402’s antenna trigger turn on the iTranzit BLU, using a relay.   This is the same setup I used on the 560EC.   The iTranzit BLU uses very little power, but I didn’t want to chance overloading it.   Thus, the antenna trigger is connected to a rely, which in turn turns on the power for both the iTranzit BLU and the power antenna.

From the ground wire, I needed connections for the Becker, the iTranzit BLU, the relay and the USB ports.   For the Switched power, I needed a wire for the Becker and one for the USB charging ports.   The illumination just went into the Becker, but the Constant power was needed for both the Becker and the relay.      As I wired the Becker connectors in, I just added a few additional wires for these other accessories.

There was a very handy spot in front of the shift lever assembly that was a good fit for the iTranzit BLU.   This was close enough to the Becker 1402 for the antenna connections, and out of the way.   At least on the W126, this is where a control box for the airbag goes, should the car be so equipped.   It’s probably the same on the W124.    I was able to push its wires up behind the ashtray.   The control button will go out the side of the centre console, as will the handsfree microphone.   The relay that powers it will just be taped to the back of the Becker.

To get the USB plugs out a small gap between the carpet and the centre console, I taped them to a now removed mobile phone connector, so I could pull them through.    As mentioned above, this just wired into switched power, as I didn’t want a small current draw when the car was not being used.

I was now ready to do my first power on test.   Before I started with the speaker wires, I plugged in the factory Becker plugs that were still floating around in behind the radio.   As expected, they did nothing and are no longer in use.   On the other hand I had no other issues with my wiring.   The Becker 1402 powered up as it should.   It accepted the security code.   The relay trigged both the antenna and the iTranzit BLU.   The illumination worked as it should.

After this test I cut off the now disconnected Becker speaker plugs, as I wanted to use them for the radio.   Since the Becker is a 2x25W radio, I needed to splice both left speakers together and both right speakers together.   I don’t plan to re-wire the fader.   This is the same setup I used when installing the Becker in a friend’s 450SE recently.     Essentially the left front positive is joined up to the left rear positive,  and the left front negative to the left rear negative.   The same goes for the right side.

Before I did this, I first checked the speaker wires were correct.   This can be done with an AA battery.   Simply hold the positive wire to the top, and the negative wire to the bottom, and the speaker should make some static.   Its a quick and simple way to check the speaker wires are as you thought.   Its only 1.5 volts, so the wires can be held on by hand.    All four speakers worked, including the front left that hadn’t been working before.   Probably a connection issue to the Sony.

Once I had the speaker wires connected properly, it was time to plug them into the back of the Becker 1402 and test the sound.   It sounded great.  Perhaps some confirmation bias, but much better than the more modern Sony.   Both AM and FM worked well.   On the other hand, the iTranzit BLU wasn’t playing music as I thought it should.   On closer examination of its manual, the status light was blinking three times.   This means its connected, but needs resetting.   Holding the action button down for six seconds took care of that.   Soon I had Sherbet’s Howzat playing through the speakers of the 300TE!

This was a good place to stop.   Everything seemed to be working quite well.   My task next time is to tidy up the wiring and actually put the Becker 1402 into the dash where it belongs. This is covered in part 3.

The post W124 Becker radio install – part 2 appeared first on Classic Jalopy.