560SEC fuel leak

When I last used my 560SEC before Xmas, I noticed a rather large puddle of petrol underneath it.   I’ve not driven the car since as it is rather dangerous to drive with such a leak.   I had assumed it was probably fuel hoses.  Many cars run on E10 rot their hoses.  I purchased a few of the relevant hoses so I would only have to do the job once.  In addition, I had previously acquired a filter for the car and keep a spare K-jet fuel pump just in case.

Here in Sydney it has been mostly mid 30s C and 80% humidity for the last two weeks, so I have not been particularly motivated to work on the car.   We finally got a break in that weather so I went down and had a look.

On removing the cover, I found the main leak coming from one of the two fuel pumps.   I also found the fuel hose from the filter to the hard line that supplies the engine had been poorly modified for the wrong fuel filter.  It didn’t look like it was in great condition either.

560SEC fuel leakThe picture above shows the replaced pump (the one furthest from the camera) and the replaced filter (above the front pump).   The hose in the foreground is the one that looked bad, it had been cut and a different hose spliced in to attach to a different type of fuel filter.     A pump and filter change on these cars is simple, but a little fiddly.    Unlike the 300SE, the fuel that came out of the filter was not dirty.

While I was able to get the pump and filter changed readily, I was not able to disconnect the fuel hose from the hard line.   The hard line is up behind the differential and drive shaft, and my 17 and 14mm spanners were too large to get up there.   I tried for a while, but not wanting to break the hard line, I decided to give up and have somebody else look at this.   Luckily there is a European mechanic 20m away from my little workshop.   I’ve never used them before, but this is a good opportunity to push the car down and see if they can get this sorted out for me.   They seem to mostly cater to BMWs, but I’ve seen a 560SL there before.    With the pump, filter and this hose changed, it should cure my 560SEC fuel leak.

In the future, I wouldn’t mind changing the hose from the tank to the fuel pumps, as it looks a bit older.   I don’t have one of these hoses to hand and the tank would need to be drained, so better to wait until its mostly empty.

Before I started this job, I noticed another issue.   I had pushed the car back into place because of its leaking fuel pump and not moved it for a few weeks.   Pushing it back out I noticed a massive pool of ATF on the ground.

560SEC ATF leak

Strangely enough, while I was using the car daily, I hadn’t seen a leak.   The car did come to me quite low on fluid. There is obviously a leak that seems more based on time than use.  Looking under the car, it seems to be on the plastic attachment with the two lines coming out of it.   Possibly there is some kind of O-ring that has broken there?

ATF leak

 

 

Hero Hoists Side by Side Parker Installation Part 4

The Hero Hoists Side by Side Parker is now installed and fully operational.   The locking mechanism is now working, and I have put the E-Type on top.   In the last part, I had the electrical connection hooked up and did the final adjustment.

Hero Hoists Side by Side Parker

The challenge I had with the locking mechanism was that a 1M rod needed to be installed from the rear of the hoist.   I did not have this much clearance.   To solve the issue, I cut the T-piece off the rod with an angle grinder and drilled out the bit of rod left in the hole.    I then purchased an M12x1.75 threaded rod from Bunnings warehouse and was able to get that rod into the hoist from the underside.   I then used nuts and washers to affix the T-piece back on the threaded rod.

T-Piece

This worked fairly well and the locks are now functioning as they should.   This hoist has two sets of locks and they look quite robust.

Threaded Rod

I also wanted to make a minor adjustment to the placement of the hoist.   This is no problem as it comes with a castor kit.  It was a pretty simple matter to install it and move the hoist about 200mm.   I was able to do this on my own.

Hero Hoists Side by Side Parker Castor Kit

The hoist is a tight fit for me, but worth it to get two more cars into my warehouse.   As outlined in the last part, I need to investigate adjusting the drop ceiling to gain an extra 100-120mm.   This will provide more flexibility for the upper cars.    Unfortunately this is probably not going to be enough height to use the 9th lock position.   Using the 9th would have allowed the Traction to be stored underneath.   The final configuration will probably be E-Type and SLC on top and DS/560SEC down below.

In the future, I may investigate an LED kit for the underside of the ramps.   I may also look at getting some wooden inserts to fully protect from drips.   Hero Hoists offer an aluminum insert kit, but its quite pricy.  It also covers the middle of the hoist between the ramps.   This wouldn’t apply in my case as I have shifted the second set of ramps to the right.

Hero Hoists Side by Side Parker Installation Part 3

The Hoist is almost operational!  The only thing left is to get the unlocking mechanism working.   In part two I installed the motor and hydraulic lines.   Yesterday an electrician connected up the hoist for me.   After fixing a minor hydraulic leak I had a working hoist (sans unlock rod).  This is timely as I needed to get the 560SEC inside.

While the unlock rod is not working I can manually unlock the hoist if I need to.   I was able to position the hoist at the height setting I’ll likely be using it and park the 250SE underneath.

Hoist

The hoist is a three phase 415v model.  It was no extra charge and since I have three phase power I might as well use it.   The motor should be more efficient and last longer.

Today I did final checks and looked to balance the hoist.   It was odd because one corner was about 10cm off the rest which seemed strange.  On closer inspection I found that the cable had come off its runner.   This probably happened when I first applied power to the motor.

Cable

As can be seen in the picture, there are rods to stop this from happening.  Fixing the problem is pretty easy – put the hoist on its locks to take tension off the cable, disconnect it from the post and remove that rod.   It is now easy to re-route the cable and re-install the rod.

Once I had positioned the hoist I was able to measure how much space I would have at various positions.   At the most likely one I will have 1344mm above and 1559 below.  This should allow me to have the E-Type and 450SLC on top and most cars (Traction excepted) below.   I do have the possibility of raising the false ceiling about 120mm to give a bit more room up top which I will investigate in due course.   The 250SE is there now, but as it is the widest car I own, it will not usually park under the hoist.

Concluded in part 4.

Product Review Update: SCA Hydraulic Vehicle Positioning Jack

Back in 2015 I did a review on the SuperCheap Auto Vehicle Positioning Jack.  I had purchased a set of these during a SCA sale.     Overall, I have mixed feelings about this purchase.    The jacks are useful to move cars that are not running.   The big challenge with them is that moving even a medium sized car requires two people, even on a flat concrete floor.   It is much easier to push a car without the jacks if it is moving in a straight line.

My expectation was that I would be able to push a regular size car around myself.  I expected that it would require effort, but I did expect to be able to do it.    The only car I have moved on the jacks that was easy to move had no engine.   Moving a race car with no interior, but with a motor was nigh on impossible on my own.

Vehicle Positioning Jack

It would also be easier to use them if they would open about 5 CM more.   As can be seen in the picture, one of the plastic guides has split, but that is my fault for moving part of the hoist on the jack.

Surprisingly, if the need is to spin a car around, it can be easier to use only two of the jacks instead of all four.

I do not know if the inability to move a car is due to this particular vehicle positioning jack, or is common to all.   I suspect this is a cheap unit and others are better.

Hero Hoists Side by Side Parker Installation Part 2

In Part 1, I had done the heavy lifting to get the Side by Side Parker installed.    I have arranged an electrician to come and hook the hoist up on Wednesday.  This gave me a deadline to get as much as I could before they arrive.   Most importantly to mount the motor.

The motor is quite heavy, but straightforward to get mounted.   A hydraulic fitting needs to be screwed into the motor so it can drive the hoists hydraulic cylinder.   The hydraulic fluid chamber also must be filled.   The motor can be mounted either at the front or back of the post.   Even though it may be slightly more awkward to operate, mounting it at the back will save space.

Side by Side Parker Motor

Next was to install the mechanism to release the locks.   This involves a serious of rods that are controlled by a handle near the power unit.   This was proceeding quite well when I noticed a problem.   To fit the rods to connect the rear lock release, a rod must be inserted that is about a meter long.   I don’t have a meter of clearance at the back of the hoist.   Due to the posts in the workshop, I don’t have that much space to move it forward to add in this rod.

I may need to find a way of cutting this rod so it can be inserted from underneath.  If I cut it, I will need to find a way of re-joining it, so perhaps having threads added?   The picture below shows the rod on the right with the T-piece at the end.   This T-piece means I cannot install it from the bottom.    This is the only thing I have left to do before the core installation is done.

Locking Rod

I may not be able to solve this by Christmas.   At least having the power connected should allow me to raise it to the highest level so I can park cars underneath until I can find an alternate to this rod.

Continued in Part 3.

Hero Hoists Side by Side Parker Installation Part 1

I help defray the costs of my workshop by renting some spaces for car storage.   This was making the workshop quite cramped, especially with the addition of the 560SEC.  Hero hoists offered an interesting four post hoist – a model that could lift two cars side by side and lift them both without the centre pillar.     The presence of the centre pillar would have made it difficult to get some other spots to the left of where the hoist is to go.

The idea was to be able to take a 4th car for storage and still have room for my cars plus a workspace.   Hero Hoists offer two models of the side by side parker.   the regular one and the high lift model.    The high lift model is probably the better value, but its a bit deeper too and I couldn’t fit the extra depth nor need the higher lifting capacity.    Personally, I would have found it better if the smaller model was narrower by 200-500mm.

I found Hero Hoists to be pretty easy to deal with during the buying process.   I was able to come out and look at a similar model on the weekend and they were able to answer all my questions.   The price is reasonable for what you get.    One slight downside was that the shipping took a lot longer than anticipated.   Obviously this is not completely in their control but worth noting.

Hero Hoists are not a manufacturer.   They have an OEM relationship with Advantage Lifts (in the USA) who have the hoists manufactured.    Therefore there is a lot of information about the Advantage lifts that can be found on the internet.   I was quite impressed with the inclusions including caster kit, jack trays, drip trays etc.   The hoists also appeared to be well constructed and sturdy.     These lifts do not require compressed air to free the locks, which I see as a big advantage.

Based on the videos that explain how to assemble the lift, I figured that my Brother and I could do it.   Professional installation is quite expensive and you still need an electrician to connect it.    The delayed shipping meant the hoist only arrived the day before he was moving to Perth so I only had him for a few hours.

The hoist arrived on a tilt tray and realistically you would need access to a portable forklift or an engine stand to remove it.   I was very lucky in that the time the hoist arrived my neighbour at the workshop (who has a forklift) was around.  He was able to help unload the hoist from the truck.

Hero Hoists

The hoist is seriously heavy – the delivery package weighs more than 1.5 tonnes.   Unfortunately, the forklift is too tall to fit into my workshop.   We were able to use it to get the hoist close to the door.    If you didn’t have the forklift you would need to use an engine stand and remove one piece at a time.

Hero Hoists DeliveryThe hoist is extremely well packed.   The pieces are bolted together and there is plenty of cardboard and bubble wrap.   From here, a portable hoist would be highly reconnected.   This lift is heavy duty and very heavy.

The two heaviest pieces are the cross beams.   To get them into the warehouse,  we lifted up one end at a time and inserted some wood blocks under each end.   This gave enough clearance to lift the cross beams up with the forklift and lower them down onto my car dollies.   The car dollies made it easy to wheel them inside.

Next are the ramps.   The power ramp has a hydraulic cylinder inside and is extremely heavy.   We needed to borrow some neighbours to lift it off.   Even with four men it is quite heavy.   We were then able to lower it onto a car that raises hydraulically about a meter.   We used the cart to bring in all four ramps, with the power ramp last so it was still on the cart.

The posts are comparatively light.   They can be moved by one person at a pinch but with two its very easy.    Using the cross beam on the dollies, were were able to position them roughly where they should be.   We were then able to push the cross beams onto their side and insert the posts from the bottom.   As our cart moves up a meter, we used the lowest lock to position the cross beam.  Once the cross beam has both posts inserted, it is a relatively simple operation to stand it up.

To position the power ramp, we used the cart to raise it higher than the cross beams.   We could then position it and gently lower it down onto the cross beams.

Hero Hoist assembly

At that point my brother needed to leave but the heavy work was mostly done.   I was able to manoeuvre the ramps onto the cart and use the cart to position them where they needed to go.   A floor jack was helpful to bring the last ramp up from floor level to make the lift onto the cart easier.

Moving the ramps around

Minor adjustments are possible once the ramps are in place.   Next step is the control cables.  I found the videos to be far more useful than the manual which is for the generic four poster.   One item that is not covered in the videos is the extending of the hydraulic cylinder.  This is mentioned in the manual.   If this is not extended then there is not enough length to connect the control cables to the top of the posts.

Each post has a top cap that allows the cables to be installed.   The cable routing is quite easy once you have watched that section of the video a couple of times.

Hero Hoists installation Next step is installing the locking actuators and the motor assembly.    I have an electrician coming later in the week to hook up the power.

Continued in part 2.

560SEC Upcoming Projects

I’ve been preparing for the next round of improvement projects for the 560SEC.    The most important is the Timing Chain and Valve Stem seals.   I’m not going to do this job myself and am hoping to save a little labour cost by having both the stem seals and the chain done at the same time.   I had previously checked the Timing chain and while it looked like it had been replaced before, the guides were getting quite old.

The parts below are all that is needed to perform this job.  On the top row from the left the first are the chain sprockets for the camshafts.   These are not strictly necessary to change but once engines are over 200,000km they are normally worn and result in timing that is slightly off.   As they have to come off to replace the guides it makes sense to replace them.    Next is the chain itself.   IWIS is the OE supplier for these engines.   It comes with a master link and the chain.    Next to the chain is the tensioner.   I was hoping to go with a Mercedes tensioner, but they are now over USD$400.   Finally on the first row is the camshaft oilers, one kit per side.   These are plastic and become hard and brittle.

In the second row, the first is the valve stem seals.   One kit per side.  These are the genuine Mercedes seals.   I also went for the genuine Mercedes guides, as can be seen in the bottom row.   I had heard that the Febi guides are not as good as the genuine Mercedes.   along with them is the gasket for the tensioner.   These plastic parts (guides and camshaft oilers) are the achilles heel of the M117 (and M116) engine, and in my opinion a design flaw.

Timing Chain

In the next photo are some other parts that make sense to do at the same time.   Shown here are some gaskets for the valve covers to prevent leaks and the copper washers for the valve cover bolts.   When I checked the engine, the breather hoses looked very old, so I purchased new ones.

Also in this photo are some good used surrounds for the seatbelt opening.   I am missing my drivers side one – they crack and then fall out.   I also purchased a thermostat as this is a good item to keep as a spare.

560SEC Parts

For the longer term, I also purchased a new oil pan.   It looks like somebody has tried to jack my car up by the pan at some point in the past.   There is also a new grommet for the antenna in the pan.

Hydraulic Oil

I also purchased some brake pads to keep as spares (put away before the photo) and the wear sensors that go with them.    The little holder for the drivers sun visor is broken, so I have a replacement for that.   The module in the middle is a first gear start module, that I will enable with the switch above it.  Instead of starting out is second gear, this module allows the transmission to start in first and then upshift to 2nd at about 9mph.   This is not for for full throttle starts, mashing the accelerator will already drop the car into first gear.    The switch is to allow the module to be disabled.   This is important because in stop/go traffic or bad weather the 2nd gear start is better.

The leather in this car will need more conditioning, so I purchased some my Zymol.   I use this in all my cars that have leather interiors.

Zymol

An oft neglected service item on these older Mercedes is the self levelling rear suspension.   This should be flushed and the filter replaced.   I purchased enough of the fluid to flush both the 560SEC and the 300SE.   I also purchased a filter for each car.

Hydraulic Oil

Both of my W126’s are missing their under-bonnet insulation pad.   This is for sound deadening and also to protect the paint above.   I will need to clean the remains of the old pads on before fitting these.   Unfortunately it is probably a while before I will get to them, but good to have them on hand for when I have the time.

Hood Pad

Finally, an owners manual for the 560SEC.   Its not the correct one, as it is for a USA model, but it was not expensive on eBay.

Owners manual

2018 Mitsubishi Pajero Sport Review

I recently rented a Mitsubishi Pajero Sport for a family holiday.   It is an interesting contrast with the Toyota Fortuner, which I reviewed earlier in the year.   Overall the Pajero Sport is the better car, although not by much.

Pajero Sport

The Pajero Sport is actually the 3rd generation Mitsubishi Challenger.     As far as  I know, the only relationship with the full size Pajero is the name.

Regular readers of this site will know I am not a fan of this type of car.  I think they are mediocre at everything.   I also don’t see the need to buy your car around the 1-2 times per year you might want to tow something or go off-road.   There are better ways to haul four people, there are much nicer cars to drive, much better value cars and better equipped cars.

In comparison with the Fortuner, the ride is very slightly better, and the engine/transmission is far more willing to overtake at freeway speed.    More importantly, the 3rd row seat are a better design.   Instead of folding into the sides and taking up a lot of the load area, they fold flat into the load area floor.     You still have the issue of getting into these seats if you have child seats in the middle row, vs cars with rear facing seats.    Like the Fortuner, the Pajero Sport is fairly fuel efficient for such a large vehicle.    It is not quite as efficient as the Fortuner.

There are two things that are worse than the fortuner.   The first is that you cannot quickly turn on the ignition to get the A/C running while you load children and bags.   You must get in the car and hold the brake pedal down.    Annoying.    Secondly, the rear loading area is really high and difficult for even an average adult to climb up in there.   Strangely the tailgate is low and I struck my head on it a few times.

Overall I would not buy a Pajero Sport.   But I would buy one over a Toyota Fortuner.    It is worth the slight fuel efficiency penalty and sometimes knocking your head on the tailgate.

3.25 / 5.

W126 Differential Ratios

The W126 range was in production from 1979-1991.  I’ve never seen a comprehensive table of W126 differential ratios, so I have attempted to create my own.   Not only did they vary between models and years, but in some cases countries too.

It is possible I have missed a few more country specific ratios.   Please indicate in the comments below if I have.

If this table is being referred to for swaps, the first and second generations diffs are not interchangeable.   Neither is an ASR diff.   LSD was standard on 560s but optional on other cars.    The exception is cars equipped with ASR that have a different differential.  ASR cars do not have LSD.

In addition, the 8 cylinder cars used a larger case (1.3l) than the smaller engined cars.

My personal view is that with first gear start, the standard ratio could be made taller.   This would improve acceleration and make the mostly useless first gear usable.   This is certainly the case on my 300SE.   I would have preferred the ratio provided for France, but with first gear start.

It is also interesting to see the 560 used a shorter ratio than the 500 or the 420.   It seems clear Mercedes saw it as more of a hot rod whereas the 500 was the autobahn cruiser with its tall 2.24 diff ratio.   In selecting the W126 differential ratios, I’m also not sure why Mercedes Benz went to the effort of producing 2.82 and 2.88 gear sets when they are so close together.

Mercedes-Benz went on a fuel efficiency drive during 1981 which is why the V8 cars got revised ratios.   The project was called the “Energy Program” and included other changes such as the revised Bore/Stroke of the 380 engine.

Model / YearDifferential RatioSpeed at 1,000 RPM (4th)RPM at 100km/h
First Generation
280S
280SE
280SEL
3.4634.22924
380SE (1980-1981)
380SEL (1980-1981)
380SE (AUS)
380SEL (AUS)
380SEC (AUS)
3.27372703
300SD (1981-1984)3.0738.62591
300SD (1985)2.8841.12433
500SE (1980-1981)
500SEL (1980-1981)
2.82432326
380SE (1982-1985)
380SEL (1982-1985)
380SEC (1982-1985)
500SEL (USA)
2.47492041
500SE (1982-1985)
500SEL (1982-1985)
500SEC (1982-1985)
2.2454.11848
Second Generation
260SE
300SE
300SEL
3.4635.32833
300SE (FR)
300SEL (FR)
3.07
350SD
350SDL
2.8243.32309
300SDL2.8842.42358
560SE
560SEL
560SEC
2.65472128
420SE
420SEL
420SEC
560SEL (USA / AUS)
560SEC (USA / AUS)
2.4749.42024
500SE
500SEL
500SEC
2.2454.51835

560SEC Major Checks

My two biggest concerns buying this 560SEC was the potential for rust being a UK car, and the condition of the timing chain.   I was pleasantly surprised when I looked underneath the 560SEC and found that it was not a rusty car.

The other common W126 rust area is under the rear windscreen.    This is also an issue in Australian delivered cars as it’s caused by rain.   Rain gets under the rear window seal causing rust.   The first evidence is that the rear windscreen starts delaminating at the corners.

560SEC Rust

As can be seen from the pictures, the rust has started under the screen.   I have seen much much worse in other W126’s.   This will need attending to before it spreads further and becomes an even bigger problem.

560SEC RustSome of the other W126 rust areas include around the boot and spare tyre well, underneath the car, behind the wheels, bottom of front fenders etc.

The other potential issue is the timing chain.   This is something of a design flaw.   As plastic guides age, they become brittle.   Unlike in the M100, the chain tensioner works on oil pressure which means on startup the chain is untensioned.   As the chain stretches, it flops around on startup, breaking one of the now brittle guides.  Part of the guide gets caught in the chain causing pistons to hit valves and the chain to penetrates the cam covers.   Timing chain failure has been the cause of many W116 & M117 equipped cars being scrapped over the years.

M117 GuideAs the guides age they discolour.   As can be seen in the picture this guide has started to discolour although it has not completely gone.    It is obviously in worse shape than when I checked the condition of the guides in my 450SLC.

M117 Timing chain

To check the chain the air cleaner assembly must be removed.   This was a good opportunity to change the filter.   When compared to the new one it was clearly in need of change.

M117 Air Filter

As this is the high compression 560, it has a twin snorkel air cleaner.

560SEC air cleaner